Why wines from volcanic soils taste of a hard-won place

Volcanic wine is less a style than a geological category, with soils of ash, basalt, pumice and tuff shaping wines alongside climate, altitude and grape variety. Vines there are hard to grow and grapes hard-won, yet the results carry a strong sense of place, from deep Etna nerello mascalese to light Tenerife listán negro. Importers describe an extra tension in such wines.